Handcrafter Supplies

We love to make soap. We also love to encourage others to make their own soap. For those of you interested in making your own personal care products, Sadies’s offers the following supplies. Also be sure to check out our molds.

Beeswax
Also sold in 1 pound boxes. Each plug is pre-measured ounce (16 plugs per box). This is extremely handy when doing recipes that call for beeswax in one once increments. No melting, weighing, measuring.

Our beeswax comes directly from the beekeeper. It is then separated and graded according to color. We only use a natural filtration process to clean the beeswax. We do not chemically bleach our white beeswax. Our White beeswax consists of the lightest grades of crude beeswax which are blended together and filtered to achieve the natural white color. Color may vary form lot to lot.

Muslin Bag
4 in. X 6 in. Muslin Bag with drawstring closure

Shampoo Dispenser
8oz. Shampoo Dispenser w/ Hook

Lotion Bar Containers
Our new Lotion Bar containers are custom made for Sadie’s, a better plastic choice for your handmade products. Sadie’s Lotion Bar Containers will stand up to shipping, dropping, and will last beyond being emptied by your customer. These Crystal Clear round push-up tubes show off your product.

Soap Cutter or Dough Scraper
Works great for cutting cold process, hot process or melt and pour soap. Blade is Hand sharpened for accurate cutting. Stainless Steel Blade with a Wooden Handle.

All Melt and Pour Soap is NOT created equal.

After buying from several supplier, this is the best quality we have found.

We may pay a little more, but we feel that our customers deserve only the best. No SLS in any of these!

All soaps in 2# blocks $7.50 each

This will make between 6-10 bars of soap, depending on size.

Glycerin is used to make clear soaps. Highly glycerinated clear soaps contain about 15% – 20% pure glycerin. Known as “Melt and Pour” soaps, these soaps are very easy for the hobbyist to work with. When you use this product you are not actually “making soap”-it is already soap. You are really “crafting soap”. When you melt this product you are customizing it with your own creative talents. They melt at about 140 degrees Fahrenheit, and solidify fairly rapidly. Because of their high glycerin content, the soaps are very moisturizing to the skin. Unfortunately, this high glycerin content also means that the soaps will dissolve more rapidly in water than soaps with less glycerin, and that if the bar of soap is left exposed to air, it will attract moisture and “glisten” with beads of ambient moisture.

Six Easy Steps to soaping with Sadie’s Melt and Pour Glycerin Soap Base

1) Melt the soap over a double boiler. Keep it covered with a lid so as to avoid loss of moisture. Bulk glycerin soap base usually has around 12%-13% water in it, and the process of melting evaporates that water out. If you were to melt the soap, let it harden, remelt it, let it harden again, and so on, eventually the soap would loose its moisture become flaky or waxy. Some people use a microwave with success. The trick is to not let the soap get too hot. (If you don’t have an “official” double boiler, just create one by putting some forks in the bottom of a big pot, filling it part way with water, and then setting a smaller pot inside.)

Tip: To avoid excess bubbles in your soap, don’t stir it like crazy, just lift the lid and nudge it occasionally during the melting process.

2) Add color. You can use food color, but only for lighter shades. Too much food color results in a soap which will stain your hands or washcloth. We sell many varieties of colors — gels, nuggets and powders. Visit our Web Store to find these products. Other options include spices like turmeric (yellow) or paprika (pink).

Tip: When you add a powdered or ground colorant, think of it like making gravy. Don’t add it directly to the entire batch of soap or you will get clumps of color. Rather, separate a small amount of soap out into a dish, add the colorant until it is like a paste, and then stir this paste back into the main soap pot.

3) Add scents. Because you are working with pre-made bulk soap, you can scent it with just about anything. Your favorite perfume, for example, or a pure essential oil. You can visit our Soap Scents page in the Web Store to view our selection of scents. How much to add depends on your preference. If you are using a fragrance oil, we recommend about one tablespoon of fragrance per pound of soap. Essential oils are quite concentrated and should be used more sparingly. Try starting with 1 to 1-1/2 teaspoons of essential oil per pound of soap base. Only fragrances that are “skin safe” should be used. Be aware that many “potpourri” type oils are not necessarily skin safe.

Tip: The color of your scent will affect the color of your soap. A clear essential oil like lavender will not color the soap. A yellow oil like lemon will give a yellow hue.

4) Add other additives. You can customize your soap with small amounts of skin-loving ingredients such as almond oil, aloe vera, shea butter, and vitamin E. Tip: As with scents, your additive will affect the final appearance of the bar in terms of clarity and color. Generally, we recommend you experiment with about 1/4th Tablespoon to 2 Tablespoons per pound of soap. Be aware, however, that by adding oils to the ready-made soap base you can run the risk of lessening the lathering ability of the soap.

5) Pour into molds. You can use many things for molds. Cookie cutters, candy molds, Tupperware, yogurt containers, PVC pipe. In our website you will also find a large selection of wonderful soap molds. Once you pour the soap into the mold, air bubbles will tend to rise to the top. You can overpour and then shave the aerated surface off. Or, what we like to do is have a spritzer of rubbing alcohol which we immediately spray on freshly poured soap. The bubbles will instantly disappear. If you have any trouble releasing the soap from the mold, you can put the mold and soap into the freezer, take it out a half an hour later, let it set on your counter for a while until you see water beading up on the mold. Then pop the soap out. The beads of water help release the soap. For best results, do not leave the soap and mold in the freezer for long periods of time.

Tip: If you are using a mold that’s open on top and bottom (like a cookie cutter), you will need to “seal the edges” so the liquid soap doesn’t run out of the mold. One technique is to take a plate, pour a little soap on it (about 1/16th inch thick) and place the mold into the soap. Let this soap seal harden before you pour your liquid soap into the mold.

6) Use and enjoy. Your soap is ready to use as soon as it hardens and comes out of the mold. Because your soap is high in emollient glycerin, it is best to wrap it in plastic wrap or shrink wrap until you are ready to use it.

Tip: Melt 50% Clear Glycerin and 50% White Glycerin together to make opaque bars – you’ll use less dye to color the soap.

White Glycerin Melt & Pour
Contains no animal fats or oils. No ethyl or methyl alcohol. No colorant. No fragrance.

Clear Glycerin Melt & Pour
Contains no animal fats or oils. No ethyl or methyl alcohol. No colorant. No fragrance. Also available in assorted jewel toned colors. E-mail or call for in stock colors.

Palm Oil
Produces a hard bar of soap. Good lathering qualities. Oil saponifies very easy. Can be up to 35% of total weight of your oils.

SAP VALUE: NAOH.131 – KOH.185
INCL DESCRIPTION: elaeis guineensis (Palm) Oil

Coconut Oil
The king of CP oils. Makes a very hard, white and high lathering soap bar. Can be used up to 35% of the total fats.

SAP VALUE: NAOH.178 – KOH.251
INCL DESCRIPTION: cocos nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Shea Butter
The moisturizing properties of shea butter is due to the natural moisturizers present. They are the same as produced by the sebaceous glands in the skin. Shea butter is the all purpose natural Vitamin A skin cream. It melts on contact with the skin. Used in lotions, creams, soaps, balms and lip preparations. Can be used up to 100% depending upon use. Use up to 5% in CP soaps.

SAP VALUE: NAOH.131 – KOH.185
INCL DESCRIPTION: butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter)

Mango Butter
Acts as a moisturizer in soaps. Lotions, creams, bath products. Use at a level of 5 – 10%. Since this is a natural product make sure to use a preservative such as our GERMABEN II.

SAP VALUE: NAOH.135 – KOH.190
INCL DESCRIPTION: mangifera indica (Mango) Seed Butter

Smelly Jelly Crystals
Sadie’s Crystals are odorless white water-absorbing polymers (polyacrylamide) used everyday in such diverse applicationsas: Air fresheners, hydro-seeding, planting/transplanting trees and shrubs, flower and vegetable gardens, indoor plants, potting, gel ice, evaporative coolers like: ties, bandanas, clothing, cool pads and pet coolers, crafts, lawns, sod farms, hillside planting, erosion control, spill absorption and cosmetics.

Smelly Jelly

Description: Take 1 level teaspoon smelly jelly crystals and add 7 oz. warm distilled water. Add a few drops of liquid soap dye to the mixture along with approximately 1 tablespoon fragrance oil. Allow the mixture to swell for about 15 minutes and place into jar. This recipe fills (1) 8 oz. smelly jelly jar

To make Smelly Jelly:

1) Fill a measuring cup with 6 oz. of distilled water.

2) Add 1 teaspoon of Sadie’s Water Crystals.

3) Stir in 1 – 2 teaspoons fragrance oil. Water based scents work just as well.

4) Add a few drops of food coloring for desired color.

5) Mix all ingredients and allow to sit for approx. an hour or so. The Smelly Jelly crystals will soak up the water and expand into little gel-like pieces. Makes enough to fill an 8 oz. Jelly Jar with Smelly Jelly.

6) Smelly Jelly Jars look cute with net, lace, or thin material in the lids (using only the rim and leaving out the middle piece)! This helps keep dust off your smelly jellies. Pick a material that goes with your product theme, such as country. Or you could pick a material to match the scents, like fruits, flowers, etc!

7) You can also use smelly jelly in potpourri warmers for an even stronger scent!

Crystal Instructions:

Start by measuring a suitable amount (see package directions) of crystals into container that will hold the finished amount.
You can’t use too much water. Any excess water is going to be drained off in a strainer. You want to be sure you have enough water so your crystals absorb as much as they possibly can. We have found that distilled water works best. If there are lots of minerals or iron in your tap water it might discolor the crystals.
If your crystals are not expanding over a 1-2 hour period, they need more water.
In about 2-4 hours, your crystals will be fully expanded. Drain off excess water!
You can either purchase our baked in colored crystals or make your own by using food coloring in the water you add to the raw crystals or adding diluted coloring to the raw crystals-let stand one hour and then use clear water. Either way its a fun way to add color coordination to your designs! At this point you can also add fragrance oils (do not use fragrance when using crystals with live plants). We usually add 1-2 teaspoons of fragrance per cup of finished crystals. Mix well.

DRYING

1. Pour the crystals into a colander and rinse with water.

2. Place the crystals on a clean styrofoam tray or tray covered with wax paper.

3. In approximately 2 to 3 weeks the crystals will shrivel and dry back to a hard crystal. Place them in a baggie and save to use again.

NOTE: Sunlight can turn the gels somewhat slimy, so keep them out of direct sunlight or direct heat. You may add your own decorations, but be sure they will not rust or be destroyed by water. Food coloring may be added, but your crystals will be forever somewhat colored. WARNING: Cigarette/cigar smoke may affect the clarity of your crystals.

DIRECTIONS FOR USING SADIE’S CRYSTALS

Hydrate Sadie’s crystals and drain well. Use ordinary liquid food color, the same type as you would for baking. Add a few drops of color and shake gently or stir carefully with a spoon. If more intense color is desired, add more food coloring. Remember that the colors in your food coloring kit can be combined to make any shade (e.g. red + blue = purple).

Note: Once crystals are colored, they will never be totally clear again. However, boiling it for a few minutes in lots of soft water will take most of the color out and it will become pale enough that you can re-tint it.

BASIC CANDLES

Use a flat candleholder with at least three inches of space around your candle. For pillar candles, simply place candle on holder and place hydrated crystals around it in whichever design you choose. For tapered candles, fasten to the holder with a glue gun or melted wax and surround with Sadie’s Crystals.

CANDLE GROUPS

Group your candles as desired on a flat candleholder or plate and secure with glue gun or melted wax. Surround with hydrated crystals — clear or colored.

CANDLES IN GLASS

Place about an inch of hydrated crystals in a tall glass container. Add enough food coloring to give an intense, jewel-like effect. Place clear hydrated crystals on top and add a matching candle. This will protect your glass container from the breakage that sometimes occurs when the candle burns down to touch the glass. If you have a slim candlestick holder, this could also be placed in the container first and the crystals be placed around them.

FLOATING CANDLES Use Sadie’s Crystals instead of plain water and float your candle on top!

CANDLES AND FRESH FLOWERS

Design your candle arrangement and accent it with a few fresh flowers and leaves. Leave about an inch of stem on each flower, and have crystals fairly wet, so that the bases of the stems have access to moisture.

CANDLES AND SILK FLOWERS

Make a candle arrangement, using well-drained crystals. Silk flowers and leaves, etc., can be easily popped off their plastic stems and floated to accent your candle. Use you imagination to create dozens of applications.

CANDLES AND POTPOURRI

After you have made a candle arrangement add a few drops of your favorite perfume or essential oil to the crystals. They will hold the fragrance and release it gradually.

WEDDING CANDLES

Color crystals to match your wedding decor and make candle centerpieces with real or silk flowers to correlate with the bridesmaids bouquets. Accent with tiny figurines and wedding favors.

CANDLE THEMES

Combined with your choice of candles, crystals makes a base for theme centerpieces for any festive occasion or seasonal celebration. Combine with flowers, glitter, real or wax fruit, a wine bottle, ceramic ornaments ………create your own theme arrangement!

Cool Ties or Bandanas
To Make Cool Ties or Cool Bandanas:

These can be made in several ways. You can take an ordinary bandana and make a cool collar for yourself by simply folding over the wide edge about an inch or an inch and a half and stitching the “hem” down to create a tube. Complete the bandanas as with the following instructions for the ties.

Cut long rectangles of fabric, approximately 4-6 inches wide and about 18-20 inches in length. If using a rectangle, fold it in half lengthwise (wrong sides together) and stitch the long edge as well as across one end to create a tube. Then, using the sewing machine, stitch across the tube 6 inches from the center close to the finished end (if using an 18 inch rectangle of fabric this would be 3 inches in from the end of the tube).

Place a teaspoon of Sadie’s Crystals into the tube and work them down. This is important because your sewing machine will NOT stitch through a crystal. Now stitch across the tube about 3 inches from the unfinished end, enclosing the crystals in the center section of the tube. Sew the fourth edge of the tube closed. Again, as with the mats you’ll need to soak one to be certain that you have neither too many nor too few crystals. With a central tube 12 inches long a measured teaspoon seems to be a good amount. This will be a personal choice that you can experiment with on your own. You can use a velcro fastener at the end or even make the ends without crystals longer so they can be tied. Just be certain that you adjust where you stitch to create the central tube so that the center tube remains about 12 inches long.

Saturation

Using about 2 tsp. per 18″-long tube 1-1/2″ wide, a mat hung out on a clothes line for 5 days in 100 plus degrees (daytime temperature) still had a bit of moisture retention. If it had been lying on a flat surface it probably would have been quite functional after 5 days.

Storage

Warning — when not in use hang in a well ventilated area. This will help prevent mildew. If desired, place your mat or tie in a zip-lock bag and place it in the refrigerator. This will keep the cool-tie hydrated for months. If longer storage is desired, make sure that the mat/tie is completely dry.

Washing

Hand wash in mild soap, rinse thoroughly and hang in a well-ventilated area to dry. A vinegar and water solution may also be used. Do not machine wash or dry in dryer.

Turbinado Sugar
Turbinado Sugar available at Sadie’s….yes, you can eat it. Yes, you can make a fabulous scrub for your body.

What is Turbinado sugar?

Turbinado sugar is sugar that has been refined to a light tan color by washing in a centrifuge under sanitary conditions. Surface molasses is removed in the washing process. In total sugar content Turbinado is closer to refined sugar than to raw sugar.

Nutrition Facts

1/4 cup
Amount per serving
Calories 144
Calories from fat 0
% Daily Value *
Total Fat 0g 0%
Saturated Fat 0g 0%
Cholesterol 0mg 0%
Sodium 0mg 0%
Total
Carbohydrate 36g 12%
Dietary Fiber 0g 0%
Protein 0g

Percent values are based on a 2,000 calorie per day diet. Your daily values may differ.

Information Additional

0% of calories from Fat
100% from Carbohydrates
0% from Protein

This turbinado sugar also makes a wonderful scrub which helps remove dry, flaky skin and won’t sting or dry as salt scrubs sometimes do. A mixture of vegetable oils helps moisturize and soften your skin.

Make your own Sugar Glow Peppermint Scrub

Turbinado sugar with it’s natural molasses make this a wonderful all over body scrub. Simply add Apricot Kernel, avocado and sweet almond oil are added along with peppermint or spearming essential oil to make this brisk rub. Enjoy before an evening out or to start your day, either way whatever tiredness will be but a distant memory.

To use: Stand in the bath or shower. Swirl the scrub to incorporate the oils (they separate out over time). Place a tablespoon (or two) in your hand or on one of our sisal pads (the pad helps a little bit go a long way). Massage over the entire body (not intended for use on the face). Rinse. The final result? Soft, silky and smooth!

Caution: The oils in the mixture may leave your tub slippery – use care!

**IMPORTANT: This information, along with the descriptions used throughout, is for informational purposes only and does not in any way constitute recommendations for medical or psychological treatment. We always recommend that medical and psychiatric conditions be referred to a trained and licensed health care provider.